夜间照相参数
Taking photos at night is a lot harder than snapping shots during the day. The less light you have to play with, the more compromises you have to make, and the harder you have to work to get a great image.
在夜间拍照比在白天拍摄快照要困难得多。 您需要玩的光越少，就必须做出更多的折衷，而为了获得出色的形象就必须付出更多的努力。
Shooting at night covers a lot of different situations, from shooting portraits indoors by lamplight to capturing landscapes outdoors just by the light of the moon. The tips and techniques I’m going to mention today will work in a broad range of circumstances. You’ll need to use your own judgement to adapt them to exactly what you’re doing.
夜间拍摄涵盖许多不同的情况，从在室内用灯光拍摄人像到仅在月光下拍摄室外风景。 我今天要提到的技巧和技术将在多种情况下起作用。 您需要使用自己的判断使它们适应您的实际工作。
为什么夜间照片很难 (Why Night Photos Are Hard)
Most night photos fail because shutter speed is much too slow when the photographer takes the shot. If it’s any longer than about 1/50th of a second and you’re shooting handheld, the image is going to be blurry; it’s just not possible to keep your hands perfectly steady enough. The image below was shot with a shutter speed of 1/13th of a second, and you can see the problem clearly.
大多数夜间照片失败，因为摄影师拍摄时快门速度太慢。 如果时间超过1/50秒左右，并且您正在手持拍摄，图像将变得模糊； 只是不可能让您的手足够平稳。 下图以1/13秒的快门速度拍摄，您可以清楚地看到问题。
Even when the shutter speed is fast enough that there’s no camera shake, it might be too slow to capture the subject. If you want to freeze something that’s moving, you need to be using shutter speeds well into the hundredths of seconds. Shooting sports at night is especially hard.
即使快门速度足够快而不会发生相机晃动，也可能太慢而无法捕捉到被摄对象。 如果要冻结正在移动的物体，则需要将快门速度很好地使用到百分之一秒。 晚上射击运动尤为困难。
Missed focus can also be a problem. Most cameras struggle to autofocus at night, since the system they use relies on detecting contrast—which they can’t do in the dark. Even if the shot isn’t blurry from camera motion or subject motion, it might still be blurry because of missed focus.
失去重点也可能是一个问题。 大多数相机在夜间难以自动对焦，因为它们使用的系统依赖于检测对比度，而这在黑暗中是无法做到的。 即使镜头没有因相机运动或拍摄对象运动而模糊，但由于未对准焦点而可能仍然模糊。
So in short, bad night photos are generally blurry for one of three reasons. It stands to reason then, that good night photos…aren’t blurry. There in lies the challenge of night photography.
简而言之，糟糕的夜晚照片通常由于以下三个原因之一而变得模糊。 那是有道理的，那晚安照片……并不模糊。 夜间摄影的挑战就在于此。
技术资料 (The Technical Stuff)
As with most situations, you want your camera in aperture priority mode when shooting at night. Set the aperture to somewhere between f/1.8 and f/4. What exact value you choose depends on how wide the lens can go and how much depth of field you want. Wider apertures will let in more light, but they will also decrease the amount of the image that’s in focus; it’s a bit of a balancing act. Apertures tighter than about f/4 are normally unusable without a tripod.
与大多数情况一样，夜间拍摄时，您希望相机处于光圈优先模式。 将光圈设置在f / 1.8和f / 4之间。 您选择的确切值取决于镜头可以移动的广角和所需的景深。 较大的光圈将允许更多的光线，但是它们也会减少对焦图像的数量； 这有点平衡。 没有三脚架的情况下，比f / 4还要紧的光圈通常无法使用。
Shutter speed is the most important setting at night. You need to get something between 1/50th of a second and about 1/200th of a second. Slower is better because it lets in more light, but you will need to go a little faster if your subject is moving. However, in aperture priority mode, you’re not controlling shutter speed directly. Instead, you’re controlling aperture and ISO. We’ve already set aperture to a nice wide value that will let in a lot of light, so the only thing left to manage is ISO. This is where the real compromise comes in.
快门速度是夜间最重要的设置。 您需要获得介于1/50秒和大约1/200秒之间的时间。 速度越慢越好，因为它可以让更多的光线进入，但是如果您的对象正在移动，则需要更快一点。 但是，在光圈优先模式下，您无法直接控制快门速度。 相反，您要控制光圈和ISO。 我们已经将光圈设置为一个很好的宽值，可以让很多光线进入，因此剩下要做的就是ISO。 这才是真正的妥协所在。
Set your ISO to the lowest value that gives you the required shutter speed. Your ISO will probably be a lot higher than is ideal, but that’s the compromise you’ll have to make. I regularly shoot portraits at night with an ISO of 3200 or 6400, which is way higher than I’d ever consider using in any other circumstance. If your shutter speed is any faster than 1/200th of a second without a very good reason, your ISO is too high.
将ISO设置为可提供所需快门速度的最低值。 您的ISO可能会比理想情况高很多，但这就是您必须做出的妥协。 我经常在夜间以3200或6400的ISO拍摄人像，这比我在任何其他情况下考虑使用的ISO都要高。 如果没有很好的理由，快门速度快于每秒1/200秒，则ISO太高。
其他技巧 (Other Tips and Tricks)
When you’re shooting at night, circumstances change quickly. One moment you’re working with a street light, the next it’s almost pitch black. If you’re shooting somewhere that the light levels are constant, switch your camera to manual mode and dial in an aperture, shutter speed and ISO that work.
当您在夜间拍摄时，情况会Swift改变。 有一刻，您正在使用路灯，下一刻几乎是黑色。 如果您在光线恒定的地方拍摄，请将相机切换为手动模式，并拨出有效的光圈，快门速度和ISO。
Your camera assumes you’re shooting during daylight when it meters a scene. Set your exposure compensation down a stop or two. Not only will this give you a faster shutter speed, but it will also make your photos look like better.
相机假设您在白天测光时正在拍摄。 将曝光补偿降低一到两档。 这不仅可以为您提供更快的快门速度，还可以使您的照片看起来更好。
Getting colors right at night is tricky. A lot of shots have an unpleasant orange color cast that’s almost impossible to fix, even in Photoshop. If you’re not happy with how the colors look in your images, convert them to black and white. That’s what I did with most of mine.
在晚上正确设置颜色很棘手。 许多照片具有令人不快的橙色偏色，即使在Photoshop中也几乎无法修复。 如果您对图像中的颜色不满意，请将其转换为黑白。 这就是我对大多数我所做的。
If your lens has image stabilization, use it. It will let you use slightly slower shutter speeds while still using your camera handheld. Be careful though—it only stops blur from camera shake, not subject movement.
如果镜头具有防抖功能，请使用它。 它可以让您在仍然使用手持相机的同时使用稍慢的快门速度。 不过请小心-它只能停止相机震动造成的模糊，而不能阻止主体移动。
Shooting at night isn’t so much about shooting in darkness as working with artificial light sources. If you’re shooting in a city, use street lights, shop windows, car headlights, or any other source of illumination you can find.
在夜间拍摄与在人工光源下工作不只是在黑暗中拍摄。 如果您在城市拍摄，请使用路灯，商店橱窗，汽车前灯或其他任何可以找到的照明源。
If you’re shooting landscapes, life will be a lot easier. Use a tripod and a shutter speed that’s as long as you need. The shot below is actually an HDR image, but the main exposure was eight seconds long, at an aperture of f/5.6 and an ISO of 400.
如果您正在拍摄风景，生活会轻松很多。 请根据需要使用三脚架和快门速度。 下面的照片实际上是HDR图像，但是主要曝光时间为8秒，光圈为f / 5.6，ISO为400。
On the subject of HDR images, if you’re shooting landscapes, shoot each scene with a range of shutter speeds. I shot the image above with shutter speeds of between four seconds and thirty seconds. In post, I combined multiple shots. Even if I hadn’t, having the extra shots gave me the flexibility to choose the best exposure.
对于HDR图像，如果要拍摄风景，请以一定范围的快门速度拍摄每个场景。 我以四秒至三十秒的快门速度拍摄了上面的图像。 在发布中，我组合了多个镜头。 即使我没有，多拍也让我可以灵活选择最佳曝光。
Your camera is going to struggle to autofocus in a hurry, so if your shot requires timing, focus manually beforehand. In the shot below, I’d already focused on the spot where Will was going to be.
您的相机将急于自动对焦，因此，如果您的拍摄需要定时，请事先手动对焦。 在下面的快照中，我已经将重点放在威尔将要去的地方。
If your camera is struggling to find focus, the best thing to do is try and autofocus on the area of the subject that has the most contrast. Once you’ve got a lock, switch to manual focus or use focus lock, and then reframe your shot.
如果您的相机难以找到焦点，最好的办法是尝试自动对焦在对比度最大的被摄对象区域。 锁定后，切换到手动对焦或使用对焦锁定，然后重新构图。
Never use the on-camera flash built in to a lot of entry level DSLRs. It creates very ugly images. You’re always better cranking up the ISO and converting the images to black and white.
切勿使用许多入门级数码单反相机内置的相机闪光灯。 它创建非常丑陋的图像。 您总是最好提高ISO并将图像转换为黑白图像。
If, however, you’ve got access to off-camera flashes, don’t be afraid to use them. They’re just another light source for you to work with. The shot of Will above used three flashes. One beneath him, one off-camera to my left and one off-camera to my right.
但是，如果您可以使用机外闪光灯，请不要害怕使用它们。 它们只是您可以使用的另一个光源。 上面的Will镜头使用了三闪。 一个在他下面，一个在我左边的摄像机外，另一个在我右边的摄像机外。
I love shooting at night, whether it’s portraits or landscapes. You have to work a little harder to get usable shots, but the rewards are worth it. Most photographers don’t work at night and if you’re prepared to, your work will stand out.
我喜欢在夜间拍摄，无论是人像还是风景。 您必须付出更多的努力才能获得可用的照片，但是值得付出的回报。 大多数摄影师晚上都不工作，如果您准备好了，您的工作将会脱颖而出。
翻译自: https://www.howtogeek.com/282487/how-to-take-photos-at-night/
夜间照相参数
1988
被折叠的 条评论
为什么被折叠?
到【灌水乐园】发言
