流利阅读 2019.2.21 Karl Lagerfeld, designer who defined luxury fashion, dies at 85

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Karl Lagerfeld, designer who defined luxury fashion, dies at 85
卡尔·拉格斐,定义了奢侈品时尚的设计师去世,享年 85 岁

Karl Lagerfeld, the most prolific designer of the 20th and 21st centuries and a man whose career formed the prototype of the modern luxury fashion industry, died Tuesday in Paris.
卡尔·拉格斐,这位 20 和 21 世纪最高产的设计师,这个用个人事业定义了现代奢侈品时尚行业的男人,本周二于巴黎去世。

Creative director of Chanel since 1983 and Fendi since 1965, and founder of his own line, Mr. Lagerfeld was the definition of a fashion polyglot. In his 80s, when most of his peers were retiring to their yachts or country estates, he was designing an average of 14 new collections a year ranging from couture to the high street, and not counting collaborations and special projects.
拉格斐先生是当之无愧的“时尚鬼才”。他于 1983 年和 1965 年起,分别担任香奈儿和芬迪的创意总监,同时还是自己品牌的创始人。在他 80 岁之后,当大多数同龄人都已退休,在游艇或乡间庄园安度晚年时,他仍保持每年平均设计 14 个新系列,其范围涵盖了高级定制到高街服装,其中还不包括合作系列和特别项目。

His greatest calling was as the orchestrator of his own myth. A self-identified “caricature,” with his dark glasses, powdered ponytail, black jeans, fingerless gloves, starched collars, Chrome Hearts jewelry and obsessive Diet Coke consumption, he achieved such a level of global fame—and controversy—that a $200 Karl Barbie doll, created in collaboration with the toymaker Mattel, sold out in less than an hour in 2014.
他最伟大的事业,是成为“卡尔·拉格斐”这个神话的缔造者。他将“夸张而怪诞”作为自己的定义:戴着墨镜,梳着搽粉的马尾辫,身着黑色牛仔裤、露指手套,衣领因上浆而笔挺,佩戴克罗心饰品,还迷恋着喝健怡可乐。以此形象示人的他,名声享誉全球,也招来了不少争议。2014 年,价值 200 美元的“芭比卡尔”由他和玩具制造商美泰联合设计推出,不到一小时就销售一空。

Those who wanted to dismiss Lagerfeld referred to him as a “styliste”: a designer who creates his looks by repurposing what already exists, as opposed to inventing anything new. But he rejected the idea of fashion-as-art, and the designer-as-tortured-genius. His goal was more opportunistic.
那些想赶拉格斐下台的人称他仅仅是位“服装设计师”:那类不创造新元素,只通过改造现存元素来设计造型的设计师。但卡尔本人拒绝接受“时尚即艺术、而设计师是饱受折磨的天才”这样的理念。他的目标中,机会主义的成分更多。

“I would like to be a one-man multinational fashion phenomenon,” he once said.
他曾经说道:“我要独领全球时尚风向。”

————— 文章来源 / 纽约时报


重点词汇

prolific/prəˈlɪfɪk/
adj.(艺术家,作家)多产的,作品丰富的

  • 英文释义:producing a great number or amount of something
  • 搭配短语:a prolific songwriter

prototype/ˈproʊtətaɪp/
n. 原型,典型

  • 英文释义:the first example of something

polyglot/ˈpɑːliɡlɑːt/
n. 多元的人;掌握多种语言的人

  • 词根词缀:poly-(多)

peer/pɪr/
n. 同龄人,同等地位或能力的人

  • 搭配短语:peer pressure

yacht/jɑːt/
n. 游艇

estate/ɪˈsteɪt/
n.(乡村) 庄园,住宅

  • 搭配短语:real estate

couture/kuˈtʊr/
n. 高级时装

collaboration/kəˌlæbəˈreɪʃn/
n. 合作,合作产品

calling/ˈkɔːlɪŋ/
n. 专业;职业

  • 例句:My father considered engineering the highest possible calling.

orchestrator/ˈɔːrkɪstreɪtər/
n. 策划者,操纵者

  • 词性拓展:orchestra (n.); orchestrate (v.)
  • 搭配短语:a carefully orchestrated publicity campaign (v.)

caricature/ˈkærɪkətʃər/
n. 漫画;夸张的表现风格;(人或物的)可笑(或怪诞)样式

  • 英文释义:a person who makes themselves seem ridiculous because they exaggerate some of their characteristics

ponytail/ˈpoʊniteɪl/
n. 马尾辫

starch/stɑːrtʃ/
v. 上浆(用淀粉浆硬衣服)

  • 词性拓展:starch(n. 淀粉)

consumption/kənˈsʌmpʃn/
n. 食用;消费;消耗

  • 词性拓展:consume (v.)

in collaboration with …
与…合作

dismiss/dɪsˈmɪs/
v. (尤指因做错事)使免职,将…解职,解雇

  • 搭配短语:dismiss the taxi
  • 例句:She can claim she is unfairly dismissed from her post.

refer to … as …
把…称为…

  • 例句:Her mother never referred to him again.

styliste/stɪlɪst/
n. (法)服装设计师

repurpose/ˌriːˈpɜːrpəs/
v. 重新利用;改变…的用途

  • 英文释义:adapt for use in a different purpose

as opposed to
而不是

  • 同义词:rather than

opportunistic/ˌɑːpərtuːˈnɪstɪk/
adj. 投机的;机会主义的

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