波浪能及波能流的推导

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前言

在二维波浪中，波浪能指单宽波峰线长度内一个波长范围（或一个周期内）中所储存的总能量，由势能和动能两部分构成。

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一、涉及到的数学公式

$$\int si{n}^{2}xdx=\frac{x}{2}-\frac{1}{4}sin2x+C\text{\hspace{1em}(1)}$$$$\int co{s}^{2}xdx=\frac{x}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sin2x+C\text{\hspace{1em}(2)}$$$$\int sin{h}^{2}xdx=-\frac{x}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sin2x+C\text{\hspace{1em}(3)}$$$$\int cos{h}^{2}xdx=\frac{x}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sin2x+C\text{\hspace{1em}(4)}$$$$cosh(2x)=cos{h}^{2}x+sin{h}^{2}x\text{\hspace{1em}(5)}$$$$sinh(2x)=2sinhxcoshx\text{\hspace{1em}(6)}$$

二、波浪势能

波浪势能由水质点偏离平衡位置所致，因此一个波长范围内（或一个周期内）单宽波峰线长度所具有的势能可以表示为：
$$\begin{array}{rl}{E}_p=& {\int }_0^L{\int }_0^{\eta }\rho gzdzdx\\ =& \rho g{\int }_0^L(\frac{1}{2}{z}^2{|}_0^{\eta })dx\\ =& \frac{\rho g}{2}{\int }_0^L{\eta }^{2}dx\end{array}$$
取余弦波有$\eta =\frac{H}{2}cos(kx-\sigma t)$，得：
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& \frac{\rho g}{2}{\int }_0^L\frac{H^2}{4}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx\\ =& \frac{\rho g{H}^2}{8}{\int }_0^{L}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx\end{array}$$
$换元法，令u=kx-\sigma t，则有\frac{du}{dx}=\frac{1}{k}=>du=\frac{1}{k}dx,x\in [0,L],u\in [-\sigma t,Lk-\sigma t]，有：$
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& \frac{\rho g{H}^2}{8k}{\int }_{\sigma t}^{Lk-\sigma t}co{s}^{2}udu\\ & \\ 运用式（2）求解得=& \frac{\rho g{H}^2}{8k}（\frac{u}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sin2u{|}_{\sigma t}^{Lk-\sigma t})\\ =& \frac{\rho g{H}^2}{8k}[\frac{Lk}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sin(2Lk-2\sigma t)-\frac{1}{4}sin2(-\sigma t)]\\ =& \frac{\rho g{H}^2}{8k}[\frac{Lk}{2}+\frac{1}{4}(sin2Lkcos2\sigma t-sin2\sigma tcos2Lk+sin2(\sigma t)]\end{array}$$$有k=\frac{2\pi }{L}，故sin2Lk=sin4\pi =0、cos2Lk=cos4\pi =1，上式化简得：$
$$\begin{array}{rl}{E}_p=& \frac{\rho g{H}^2}{8k}\frac{Lk}{2}\\ & \\ =& \frac{\rho g{H}^{2}L}{16}\end{array}$$

三、波浪动能

波浪动能由质点运动产生，已知质点速度
$$u=\frac{H\sigma }{2}\frac{coshk(h+z)}{sinhkh}cos(kx-\sigma t)$$$$w=\frac{H\sigma }{2}\frac{sinhk(h+z)}{sinhkh}sin(kx-\sigma t)$$
一个波长范围内（或一个周期内）单宽波峰线长度所具有的动能可以表示为：
$$\begin{array}{rl}{E}_k=& {\int }_0^L{\int }_{-h}^0\frac{\rho }{2}(u^2+w^2)dzdx\\ & \\ =& \frac{H^2{\sigma }^2}{4}\cdot \frac{\rho }{2}[{\int }_0^L{\int }_{-h}^0\frac{cos{h}^{2}k(h+z)}{sin{h}^{2}kh}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dzdx\\ +& {\int }_0^L{\int }_{-h}^0\frac{sin{h}^{2}k(h+z)}{sin{h}^{2}kh}si{n}^2(kx-\sigma t)dzdx]\end{array}$$
令其中$E_k$表达式中系数项为①，中括号内第1个二重积分项为②，中括号内第2个二重积分项为③；

取积分项②：
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& {\int }_0^L{\int }_{-h}^0\frac{cos{h}^{2}k(h+z)}{sin{h}^{2}kh}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dzdx\\ =& \frac{1}{sin{h}^{2}kh}{\int }_0^{L}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx{\int }_{-h}^{0}cos{h}^2[k(h+z)]dz\end{array}$$
$换元法，令u_1=k(x+z)，则有\frac{d{u}_1}{dz}=\frac{1}{k}=>dz=\frac{1}{k}d{u}_1,z\in [-h,0],u_1\in [0,kh]，有：$
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& \frac{1}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}{\int }_0^{L}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx{\int }_0^{kh}cos{h}^2{u}_{1}d{u}_1\\ 运用式（4）得=& \frac{1}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}{\int }_0^{L}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx\cdot [\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)]\\ & \\ =& \frac{\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}{\int }_0^{L}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx\\ & \end{array}$$
积分项与势能推导中相同，则②化简可得： $$=\frac{\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)}{k^{2}sin{h}^{2}kh}\frac{kL}{2}\text{\hspace{1em}(7)}$$

$E_k$表达式中中括号内第2项③：
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& {\int }_0^L{\int }_{-h}^0\frac{sin{h}^2[k(h+z)]}{sin{h}^{2}kh}si{n}^2(kx-\sigma t)dzdx\\ =& \frac{1}{sin{h}^{2}kh}{\int }_0^{L}si{n}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx{\int }_{-h}^{0}sin{h}^2[k(h+z)]dz\end{array}$$
$换元法，令u_2=k(x+z)，则有\frac{d{u}_2}{dz}=\frac{1}{k}=>dz=\frac{1}{k}d{u}_2,z\in [-h,0],u_2\in [0,kh]，有：$
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& \frac{1}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}{\int }_0^{L}si{n}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx{\int }_0^{kh}sin{h}^2{u}_{2}d{u}_2\\ 运用式（3）得=& \frac{1}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}{\int }_0^{L}si{n}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx\cdot [-\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)]\\ & \\ =& \frac{-\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}{\int }_0^{L}si{n}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx\\ & \end{array}$$
令上式系数项为④，积分项为⑤，则③=④$\times$⑤

取⑤：

$换元法，令u_3=kx-\sigma t，则有\frac{d{u}_3}{dx}=\frac{1}{k}=>d{u}_3=\frac{1}{k}dx,x\in [0,L],u\in [-\sigma t,Lk-\sigma t]，有：$
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& (\frac{u_3}{2}-\frac{1}{4}sin2u_3){|}_{-\sigma t}^{kL-\sigma t}\\ =& [\frac{kL}{2}-\frac{1}{4}\times (sin2kLcos2\sigma t-sin2\sigma tcos2kL-sin2(-\sigma t))]\end{array}$$$有k=\frac{2\pi }{L}，故sin2Lk=sin4\pi =0、cos2Lk=cos4\pi =1，上式化简得：⑤=\frac{kL}{2}$
有：$$③=\frac{-\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}\times \frac{kL}{2}$$

$$\begin{array}{rl}{E}_k=& ①\times (②+③)\\ =& \frac{H^2{\sigma }^2}{4}\cdot \frac{\rho }{2}\times [(\frac{\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)}{k^{2}sin{h}^{2}kh}\frac{kL}{2}+\frac{-\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}\times \frac{kL}{2})]\\ & \\ =& \frac{H^2{\sigma }^2\rho L}{16}[\frac{\frac{1}{2}sinh(2kh)}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}]\\ & \\ =& \frac{H^2{\sigma }^2\rho L}{16}\times \frac{1}{ksin{h}^{2}kh}\\ & \end{array}$$
根据弥散方程${\sigma }^2=gktanhkh$,代入化简得：
$$E_k=\frac{\rho g{H}^{2}L}{16}$$

至此我们求得微幅波的波浪势能和波浪动能相等，即$E_k=E_p=\frac{\rho g{H}^{2}L}{16}$

四、波能流（波功率）

波能流又称波功率，是单位宽度上波能的传递率，或认为是动水压力在波浪传播方向上做的功。
$$\begin{array}{rl}P=& {\int }_0^L{\int }_{-h}^0{P}_{d}udzdx\\ & \\ 其中P_d=& \frac{\rho gH}{2}\cdot \frac{coshk(h+z)}{coshkh}\cdot cos(kx-\sigma t)\\ & \\ u=& \frac{H\sigma }{2}\frac{coshk(h+z)}{sinhkh}cos(kx-\sigma t)\\ & \\ 因此P_d\cdot u=& \frac{\rho g{H}^2\sigma }{4}\cdot \frac{cos{h}^2[k(h+z)]}{\frac{1}{2}sinh(2kh)}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)\\ & \\ 故P=& \frac{\rho g{H}^2\sigma }{4}\cdot \frac{1}{\frac{1}{2}sinh(2kh)}{\int }_0^{L}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx{\int }_{-h}^{0}cos{h}^2[k(h+z)]dz\\ & \end{array}$$
令上式系数项为⑥，第二积分项为⑦，第三积分项为⑧：

取第三积分项⑧：
$${\int }_{-h}^{0}cos{h}^2[k(h+z)]dz$$$换元法，令u_4=k(x+z)，则有\frac{d{u}_4}{dz}=\frac{1}{k}=>dz=\frac{1}{k}d{u}_4,z\in [-h,0],u_4\in [0,kh]，有：$
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& \frac{1}{k}{\int }_0^{kh}cos{h}^2{u}_{4}d{u}_4\\ =& \frac{1}{k}\times [\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)]\end{array}$$

取第二积分项⑦：
$$\begin{array}{rl}=& {\int }_0^{L}co{s}^2(kx-\sigma t)dx\\ 积分项上文求过=& \frac{L}{2}\end{array}$$

故原式$P=⑥\times ⑦\times ⑧，有：$
$$\begin{array}{rl}P=& \frac{\rho g{H}^2\sigma }{4}\cdot \frac{1}{\frac{1}{2}sinh(2kh)}\times \frac{L}{2}\times \frac{1}{k}\times [\frac{kh}{2}+\frac{1}{4}sinh(2kh)]\\ & \\ 整理=& \frac{\rho g{H}^2}{8}\times \frac{\sigma }{k}\times \frac{1}{2}[\frac{2kh}{sinh(2kh)}+1]\\ & \\ 令波能传播速率n=& \frac{1}{2}[\frac{2kh}{sinh(2kh)}+1]\\ & \\ 则P=& (E_p+E_k)\cdot c\cdot n\end{array}$$
至此我们求得微幅波的波能流（或波功率）