文章目录
前言
坐标系定义:原点在静水面(SWL),Z轴向上为正,海底为-h,X轴取波浪传播方向为正。
波浪自由表面:
η
=
H
2
c
o
s
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
\eta=\frac {H} {2} cos(kx-\sigma t)
η=2Hcos(kx−σt)
一、微幅波控制方程和边界条件
{
G
.
D
.
E
:
∇
2
Φ
=
∂
2
Φ
∂
x
2
+
∂
2
Φ
∂
z
2
=
0
,
(
−
h
≤
z
≤
η
,
−
∞
≤
x
≤
+
∞
)
B
.
B
.
C
:
∂
Φ
∂
z
=
0
,
(
z
=
−
h
)
D
.
F
.
S
.
B
.
C
:
η
=
−
1
g
∂
Φ
∂
t
,
(
z
=
0
)
K
.
F
.
S
.
B
.
C
:
∂
η
∂
t
=
∂
Φ
∂
z
,
(
z
=
0
)
L
.
B
.
C
:
Φ
(
x
,
z
,
t
)
=
Φ
(
x
−
c
t
,
z
)
\begin{cases} G.D.E: &\nabla^2\Phi=\frac {\partial ^2 \Phi} {\partial x^2} + \frac {\partial ^2 \Phi} {\partial z^2}=0, \ \ (-h\le z\le\eta,\ -\infty\le x\le+\infty)\\\\ B.B.C: &\frac {\partial\Phi} {\partial z}=0,\ (z=-h)\\\\ D.F.S.B.C:&{\eta=-\frac 1 g \frac {\partial\Phi} {\partial t}, (z=0)}\\\\ K.F.S.B.C:&\frac {\partial\eta} {\partial t}=\frac {\partial\Phi} {\partial z}, (z=0)\\\\ L.B.C:&\Phi(x,z,t)=\Phi(x-ct,z) \end{cases}
⎩⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎨⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎧G.D.E:B.B.C:D.F.S.B.C:K.F.S.B.C:L.B.C:∇2Φ=∂x2∂2Φ+∂z2∂2Φ=0, (−h≤z≤η, −∞≤x≤+∞)∂z∂Φ=0, (z=−h)η=−g1∂t∂Φ,(z=0)∂t∂η=∂z∂Φ,(z=0)Φ(x,z,t)=Φ(x−ct,z)
由D.F.S.B.C可知
η
\eta
η和速度势函数
Φ
\Phi
Φ在时间上的导数呈线性关系,不妨设
Φ
=
f
(
z
)
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
\Phi=f(z)sin(kx-\sigma t)
Φ=f(z)sin(kx−σt),只要根据控制方程和边界条件求解
f
(
z
)
f(z)
f(z),即可知道波浪的运动特性。
二、通过G.D.E求 Φ \Phi Φ表达式形式
根据微幅波控制方程(G.D.E):
∂
2
Φ
∂
x
2
+
∂
2
Φ
∂
z
2
=
0
\frac {\partial ^2 \Phi} {\partial x^2} + \frac {\partial ^2 \Phi} {\partial z^2}=0
∂x2∂2Φ+∂z2∂2Φ=0
有:
{
∂
Φ
∂
x
=
f
(
z
)
k
c
o
s
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
∂
Φ
∂
z
=
f
′
(
z
)
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
\begin{cases} \frac {\partial \Phi} {\partial x} = f(z)kcos(kx-\sigma t)\\\\ \frac {\partial \Phi} {\partial z} = f'(z)sin(kx-\sigma t) \end{cases}
⎩⎪⎨⎪⎧∂x∂Φ=f(z)kcos(kx−σt)∂z∂Φ=f′(z)sin(kx−σt)
{
∂
2
Φ
∂
x
2
=
−
f
(
z
)
k
2
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
∂
2
Φ
∂
z
2
=
f
′
′
(
z
)
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
\begin{cases} \frac {\partial ^2 \Phi} {\partial x^2}= -f(z)k^2sin(kx-\sigma t)\\\\ \frac {\partial ^2 \Phi} {\partial z^2} = f''(z)sin(kx-\sigma t) \end{cases}
⎩⎪⎨⎪⎧∂x2∂2Φ=−f(z)k2sin(kx−σt)∂z2∂2Φ=f′′(z)sin(kx−σt)
式(12)则化为:
∂
2
Φ
∂
x
2
+
∂
2
Φ
∂
z
2
=
0
\frac {\partial ^2 \Phi} {\partial x^2} + \frac {\partial ^2 \Phi} {\partial z^2}=0
∂x2∂2Φ+∂z2∂2Φ=0
f
′
′
(
z
)
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
−
f
(
z
)
k
2
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
=
0
f''(z)sin(kx-\sigma t)-f(z)k^2sin(kx-\sigma t)=0
f′′(z)sin(kx−σt)−f(z)k2sin(kx−σt)=0
化简:
[
f
′
′
(
z
)
−
k
2
f
(
z
)
]
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
=
0
[f''(z)-k^2f(z)]sin(kx-\sigma t)=0
[f′′(z)−k2f(z)]sin(kx−σt)=0其中
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
sin(kx-\sigma t)
sin(kx−σt)不恒为0,则要求
[
f
′
′
(
z
)
−
k
2
f
(
z
)
]
[f''(z)-k^2f(z)]
[f′′(z)−k2f(z)]恒为0。
[
f
′
′
(
z
)
−
k
2
f
(
z
)
]
=
0
(1)
[f''(z)-k^2f(z)]=0\tag{1}
[f′′(z)−k2f(z)]=0(1)
这里涉及到求解常系数齐次线性微分方程,方法见我的另一篇帖子。
方程(1)的特征方程为
r
2
−
k
2
=
0
r^2-k^2=0
r2−k2=0,因此通解的结构为
f
(
z
)
=
A
e
k
z
+
B
e
−
k
z
(2)
f(z)=Ae^{kz}+Be^{-kz}\tag{2}
f(z)=Aekz+Be−kz(2)
速度势函数则为
Φ
=
(
A
e
k
z
+
B
e
−
k
z
)
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
(3)
\Phi=(Ae^{kz}+Be^{-kz})sin(kx-\sigma t)\tag{3}
Φ=(Aekz+Be−kz)sin(kx−σt)(3)
三、通过B.B.C求待定系数A、B的关系
根据底部边界条件(B.B.C):
∂
Φ
∂
z
=
0
,
(
z
=
−
h
)
\frac {\partial\Phi} {\partial z}=0,\ (z=-h)
∂z∂Φ=0, (z=−h)
有
∂
Φ
∂
z
=
(
A
k
e
k
z
−
B
k
e
−
k
z
)
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
=
0
,
(
w
h
e
n
z
=
−
h
)
\frac {\partial\Phi} {\partial z}=(Ake^{kz}-Bke^{-kz})sin(kx-\sigma t)=0,\ (when\ z=-h)
∂z∂Φ=(Akekz−Bke−kz)sin(kx−σt)=0, (when z=−h)
其中
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
sin(kx-\sigma t)
sin(kx−σt)不恒为0,所以
(
A
k
e
k
z
−
B
k
e
−
k
z
)
=
0
(Ake^{kz}-Bke^{-kz})=0
(Akekz−Bke−kz)=0,代入
z
=
−
h
z=-h
z=−h:
A
k
e
−
k
h
−
B
k
e
k
h
=
0
Ake^{-kh}-Bke^{kh}=0
Ake−kh−Bkekh=0
A
k
e
−
k
h
=
B
k
e
k
h
(4)
Ake^{-kh}=Bke^{kh} \tag{4}
Ake−kh=Bkekh(4)
对方程(2)作变形,等式右边同乘 e k h e − k h e^{kh}e^{-kh} ekhe−kh:
f
(
z
)
=
A
e
k
z
+
B
e
−
k
z
=
e
k
h
e
−
k
h
(
A
e
k
z
+
B
e
−
k
z
)
=
A
e
−
k
h
e
k
z
e
k
h
+
B
e
k
h
e
−
k
h
e
−
k
z
\begin{aligned} \ f(z)=&Ae^{kz}+Be^{-kz}\\\\ \ =&e^{kh}e^{-kh}(Ae^{kz}+Be^{-kz})\\\\ \ =&Ae^{-kh}e^{kz}e^{kh}+Be^{kh}e^{-kh}e^{-kz} \end{aligned}
f(z)= = =Aekz+Be−kzekhe−kh(Aekz+Be−kz)Ae−khekzekh+Bekhe−khe−kz代入(4)有:
=
2
A
e
−
k
h
⋅
e
k
(
h
+
z
)
+
e
−
k
(
h
+
z
)
2
\begin{aligned} \ =&2Ae^{-kh}\cdot\frac {e^{k(h+z)}+e^{-k(h+z)}} {2}\\ \end{aligned}
=2Ae−kh⋅2ek(h+z)+e−k(h+z)
f
(
z
)
=
2
A
e
−
k
h
c
o
s
h
[
k
(
h
+
z
)
]
(5)
f(z)=2Ae^{-kh}cosh[k(h+z)]\tag{5}
f(z)=2Ae−khcosh[k(h+z)](5)
四、通过D.F.S.B.C确定系数A
现在
Φ
\Phi
Φ可以写成
Φ
=
2
A
e
−
k
h
c
o
s
h
[
k
(
h
+
z
)
]
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
(6)
\Phi=2Ae^{-kh}cosh[k(h+z)]sin(kx-\sigma t)\tag{6}
Φ=2Ae−khcosh[k(h+z)]sin(kx−σt)(6)
根据自由表面动力边界条件(D.F.S.B.C):
η
=
−
1
g
∂
Φ
∂
t
,
(
z
=
0
)
\eta=-\frac 1 g \frac {\partial\Phi} {\partial t}, (z=0)
η=−g1∂t∂Φ,(z=0)
解得:
η
=
σ
g
2
A
e
−
k
h
c
o
s
h
k
h
⋅
c
o
s
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
(7)
\eta=\frac {\sigma} {g} 2Ae^{-kh}coshkh\cdot cos(kx-\sigma t)\tag{7}
η=gσ2Ae−khcoshkh⋅cos(kx−σt)(7)
又有设
η
=
H
2
c
o
s
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
\eta=\frac {H} {2} cos(kx-\sigma t)
η=2Hcos(kx−σt),消去同项得:
H
2
=
σ
g
2
A
e
−
k
h
c
o
s
h
k
h
\frac H 2 = \frac \sigma g2Ae^{-kh}coshkh
2H=gσ2Ae−khcoshkh
得
2
A
e
−
k
h
=
g
H
2
σ
⋅
1
c
o
s
h
k
h
(8)
2Ae^{-kh}=\frac {gH} {2 \sigma}\cdot \frac 1 {coshkh}\tag{8}
2Ae−kh=2σgH⋅coshkh1(8)
将式(8)代入式(6)有:
Φ
=
g
H
2
σ
⋅
c
o
s
h
[
k
(
h
+
z
)
]
c
o
s
h
(
k
h
)
⋅
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
(9)
\Phi = \frac {gH} {2 \sigma}\cdot \frac {cosh[k(h+z)]} {cosh(kh)} \cdot sin(kx-\sigma t) \tag{9}
Φ=2σgH⋅cosh(kh)cosh[k(h+z)]⋅sin(kx−σt)(9)
至此求得微幅波速度势函数,即式(9)
五、通过K.F.S.B.C求解弥散关系(dispersion relationship)
根据自由表面运动边界条件(K.F.S.B.C):
∂
η
∂
t
=
∂
Φ
∂
z
,
(
w
h
e
n
z
=
0
)
(10)
\frac {\partial\eta} {\partial t}=\frac {\partial\Phi} {\partial z}, (when\ z=0)\tag{10}
∂t∂η=∂z∂Φ,(when z=0)(10)
等式左边:
{
η
=
H
2
c
o
s
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
∂
η
∂
t
=
H
σ
2
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
\begin{cases} \ \eta=\frac {H} {2} cos(kx-\sigma t)\\\\ \ \frac {\partial\eta} {\partial t}=\frac {H \sigma} 2 sin(kx-\sigma t)\\ \end{cases}
⎩⎪⎨⎪⎧ η=2Hcos(kx−σt) ∂t∂η=2Hσsin(kx−σt)
等式右边:
{
Φ
=
g
H
2
σ
⋅
c
o
s
h
[
k
(
h
+
z
)
]
c
o
s
h
(
k
h
)
⋅
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
∂
Φ
∂
z
=
g
H
k
2
σ
⋅
s
i
n
h
[
k
(
h
+
z
)
]
c
o
s
h
(
k
h
)
⋅
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
=
g
H
k
2
σ
⋅
s
i
n
h
(
k
h
)
c
o
s
h
(
k
h
)
⋅
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
,
(
w
h
e
n
z
=
0
)
\begin{cases} \ \Phi = \frac {gH} {2 \sigma}\cdot \frac {cosh[k(h+z)]} {cosh(kh)} \cdot sin(kx-\sigma t)\\\\ \ \frac {\partial\Phi} {\partial z}=\frac {gHk} {2 \sigma}\cdot \frac {sinh[k(h+z)]} {cosh(kh)} \cdot sin(kx-\sigma t)\\\\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ =\frac {gHk} {2 \sigma}\cdot \frac {sinh(kh)} {cosh(kh)} \cdot sin(kx-\sigma t), (when\ z=0) \end{cases}
⎩⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎨⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎪⎧ Φ=2σgH⋅cosh(kh)cosh[k(h+z)]⋅sin(kx−σt) ∂z∂Φ=2σgHk⋅cosh(kh)sinh[k(h+z)]⋅sin(kx−σt) =2σgHk⋅cosh(kh)sinh(kh)⋅sin(kx−σt),(when z=0)
此时式(10)可改写成:
H
σ
2
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
=
g
H
k
2
σ
⋅
s
i
n
h
(
k
h
)
c
o
s
h
(
k
h
)
⋅
s
i
n
(
k
x
−
σ
t
)
\frac {\cancel{H} \sigma} {\cancel 2} \cancel {sin(kx-\sigma t)}=\frac {g\cancel{H}k} {\cancel{2} \sigma}\cdot \frac {sinh(kh)} {cosh(kh)} \cdot \cancel {sin(kx-\sigma t)}
2
H
σsin(kx−σt)
=2
σgH
k⋅cosh(kh)sinh(kh)⋅sin(kx−σt)
整理可得波浪运动的重要方程弥散方程
σ
2
=
g
k
t
a
n
h
(
k
h
)
(11)
\sigma^2=gktanh(kh)\tag{11}
σ2=gktanh(kh)(11)
六、通过弥散方程讨论波浪运动特点
根据上述的推导,我们得到弥散方程的一般形式,其中
σ
=
2
π
T
\sigma = \frac {2\pi} T
σ=T2π,
k
=
2
π
L
k=\frac {2\pi} L
k=L2π,代入(11)得:
L
=
g
T
2
2
π
t
a
n
h
2
π
L
h
(12)
L=\frac {gT^2} {2\pi}tanh\frac{2\pi} {L} h\tag{12}
L=2πgT2tanhL2πh(12)
又有
c
=
L
T
c=\frac {L} {T}
c=TL,有:
c
=
g
T
2
π
t
a
n
h
2
π
L
h
(13)
c=\frac {gT} {2\pi}tanh\frac{2\pi} {L} h\tag{13}
c=2πgTtanhL2πh(13)
说明:式(11)、(12)、(13)为弥散方程的三种不同形式。
由弥散方程可知微幅波运动具有以下特点:
(1)、波浪要素L、T、h并不相互独立。对于给定水深h,每一个周期T对应一个波长为L的波;又因为
c
=
L
T
c=\frac {L} {T}
c=TL,所以每个周期T(或说每个波长L)对应一个确定的波速c,表现在物理现象上就是波浪的弥散现象,即不同周期的波拥有不同的波速而分离开来。
(2)、虽然弥散方程是一个隐式方程,涉及到迭代求解,但有结论:
当T一定时,波浪从深h到浅h传播时,L变小,
c
=
L
T
c=\frac {L} {T}
c=TL也变慢;
当h一定时,波周期T越长,波长L越长,波速c越快。
求解弥散方程时,需要查表或迭代试算,一般先假设为深水波,即
t
a
n
h
k
h
=
1
tanhkh=1
tanhkh=1,算得
L
0
=
g
T
2
2
π
L_0=\frac {gT^2} {2\pi}
L0=2πgT2,再回代求
L
1
=
g
T
2
2
π
t
a
n
h
2
π
L
0
h
L_1=\frac {gT^2} {2\pi}tanh\frac{2\pi} {L_0} h
L1=2πgT2tanhL02πh,判断
∣
L
0
−
L
1
∣
|L_0-L_1|
∣L0−L1∣是否小于一个规定的小数,若小于则说明收敛,若不小于则继续迭代直至满足要求。