trinus 3d打印机安装调试到成功打印1-快捷上手

trinus 3d打印机是一款传奇打印机,有着执着的设计、惊艳的质感和与体积不适应的质量,即便桀骜不驯,一意孤行直到被后来者超越,也不妨碍依旧是打印界的白月光。这款3D打印机是用铝和钢质材料制成的,2016年3月30日在Kickstarter正式上线启动众筹,价格为299美元。这可能是世界上最便宜的全金属3D打印机了。沧海桑田,目前市场上已经很少见到了,她一方面标配四套工业机械单轴滑台,打印速度可以达到70毫米/秒,另一方面对新手来说依旧是高山级挑战,没有屏幕,没有热床,没有弹簧钢板,没有铲子、没有通针,甚至没有一个国标插头,但所有一切都让你激发出无尽的兴趣,或者越是原始越是初衷,今天我们就一探究竟。

(*本文仅作为条件有限时开箱通电实验参考,后期联机升级改造有大佬专题文章,不再赘述。如有销售方详细攻略,请略过。)

1.拆箱

拆箱视频网上有很多,这里不再赘述。需要注意的是,千万不要低估她的重量。

25237e9b8a3a4b34b172fd9a082b43d8.jpg

 都是实打实的金属,而且不是铝合金。

f3a7e4702c1244eaa90ccdb51a0b4e8f.jpg

 打印机的插头是这个形状的基本上国内没有多少适配的,除非找转接头插座。

建议选择一条电脑用线,只要是三个圆孔接的那种就行。

着急用也找不着替换的线时应找专业人进行帮助,不建议直接暴力拆掉地线。备注:这种操作是被禁止的,要连接地线以确保安全。4594525d7fae4a498a3d6b630dd00a32.jpg

47f94767fbe84b27956ce16b2cd8cd28.jpg

69aaa930782843698c26c1c594964d46.jpg 这是机器自带的两张单页,全英文的。

 翻译如下

c244a463404445c09da14588156d88e8.jpg

4dd7ed37e3a64c7489ea12f501f743e1.jpg

 具体操作我们后边会研究。

2.组装

机器自带部分工具,还需要自备十字螺丝刀用于打印板固定。有配套的说明书,一步步对着操作就行。

对于动手能力强的和组装过打印机的来说,就是拧螺丝的小事。需要提前注意的是,多颗螺丝同时固定一个部件时,最好不要上来就拧紧,而是等全部螺丝无缝进入孔位后再拧紧。至于对角线、三圈半自行把握。

另一个难点是线序。说明书中的线头颜色和实物会有不同,尤其是同一个颜色、同一个大小型号的母头时,需要谨慎区分。插拔错了可能发生不必要的麻烦。

070273879f86458da181170e526c87ab.jpg

 4ac4058d28f7497aa6bb8b1ef1b0bb9f.jpg

(*注意:不同批次线序颜色不同,需要结合实际链接,以销售方解释为准。)

3.调平和首次测试

由于没有屏幕,需要连接第三方软件进行打印。如果不连接电脑,安装了自带的sd卡,机器会自动打印料架轴。这是一个两部分零件同时切片的文件。

如果找不到调平的地方,可以让机器先打一下试错中微调。

c42269a2a81649548a65deb495384a90.jpg

 如果初始层打成这个样子,那就是喷头与平台距离过大。这个时候就要及时停止。可以关机因为没有屏幕可以操作。

4191d698151c4c8c99b4523f3af1c421.jpg

 出的细丝是圆柱型的,而不是扁平的,这样会降低附着力,初始勉强可以打印,但是到后期可能就直接脱落了。

自带的原始模型,在切片时是加了一个底座,网状的底座。e91aa178da0d4b46823a77ec551529ab.jpg

。可以选择裙边重新切片。这个要到下一步连接电脑才能实现。

b17ad004501a417ba00979324da2901a.jpg

接下来是要调整喷头高度。调节图中螺丝,向右是缩小两者的距离,向左是加大距离。此时我们选择向右旋转。

280dad6eabcd4ed5a6124bc109abd6a5.jpg

 一直旋转到初始层不再出现麻花状,而是略微扁平。距离太近了也会影响,除了碰伤喷头之外,还会造成拆解打印完的模型费劲直接破坏美纹纸。一共赠送了两张美纹纸,在自购之前还是要保守使用。合适的距离可以方便于拆卸模型。

4.连接电脑进行调试

由于默认文件打印量大,稍有不慎给极其容易造成赠送的耗材消耗完毕。所以最好连接电脑,分块进行切片打印。同时测试联机打印。

f05e53a7f3b14e09a7f07829591ae1ec.jpg这是连接电脑后单独切了其中一个部分的零件选择裙边模式。可以成功打印质量也不错。

步骤:

320b9714fa52428f933ace0324b22d54.png

打开送的卡,由于空间有限,很多软件只有链接需要自己下载。

3b9e91f0d59d4a13aefcb85ffa39c6f0.png

推荐的切片软件如图。我们以第一款为例。

Download Cura Slicer (Freeware)
https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura

Download Cura Profiles and "How To Use" for Bardo
https://us.kodama3d.com/pages/download

推荐参数

These are the recommended layer heights to use when slicing for Trinus.  They are calculated so that they fit "perfectly" the mechanical specifications of Trinus Z leadscrews.  All 3d printers have different so-called "magic numbers" that work best for specifying layer heights.

Extra Fine (0.06) = 0.0613
Fine (0.1) = 0.1006
Normal (0.15) = 0.1531
Draft (0.2) = 0.2013
Fast (0.3) = 0.3019

Credit:  Above list of layer heights were submitted by user Andy Bolton.  The listed layer heights were mapped to the magic number and should give more consistent layers with minimum layer blemish.

cura是可以设置简体中文的,需要安装后设置。

安装电子文档说明书步骤来即可。注意要修改代码。

How to setup Cura for
Trinus with Bardo
By Roi Igarashi (aka Royshands)
● Note: This document assumes Trinus with Bardo running firmware 2.1.1 or 2.1.2 is used.
It works with Cura 4.4.1, but Cura 4.5.0 works better with bug fixes and more experimental features.
Doc V10
Download Cura. The software is open source and freeware:
https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
Chose the latest version available for your computer OS.
Install Cura and Run it.
Depending on your
computer OS, the
application user interface
will look something like this.
If it’s the first time you’re
running, Cura will present
you with a series of
questions (forms) about
Trinus before the Cura user
interface window appears.
The very first time you run Cura, it may present some forms to fill
out to install Trinus. In that case, you can skip the next slide.
The succeeding slides on “Add a Printer...” will be presented to
you automatically by Cura.
The first task is to “install”
Trinus into the application.
Click (#1) and then (#2) (Add
printer).
Note: You can skip this slide
if you’re using Cura for the
first time. The following forms
below will be presented to you
automatically.
Click the drop-down list of
printers (Add a non-
networked printer) - (#1).
Click (#2) - (Custom)
Select Custom FFF printer -
(#1)
Type the Printer name
(Trinus) - (#2)
Click [ Add ] button - (#3)
Type 120 mm for X, Y and Z - (#1)
(note that Z can probably be higher, but
for now type 120mm also for Z)
Delete the Start G-code and End G-
code - (#2)
Click the [Extruder 1] tap - (#3)
Note: The Z height can be higher but it
will depend on what type of bed leveling
system you have. The thicker that is,
the shorter the Z height will be. To be
on the safe side, we will set it up to a
low 120mm this time.
G28
G92 E0
G1 X0 Y0 Z10 F3600
G1 X0 Y0 Z0.3 F3600
G1 E1.5 F200
G1 Y10 E3.0 F200
G1 Y35 E6.0 F600
G1 Y38 Z0.1 F3600
Optional Codes Here*
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G28 X Y; move head away from print
G1 Y120 F2400 ; move bed to front of machine
M84 ; disable motors
M92 X228.57 Y228.57 Z1828.57 E691.74
If your Bardo uses a different FW
(FW 2.1.1 and 2.1.2 with small Z change*)
If you experience too much random layer
shifting add also: M201 X350.00 Y350.00 Z25.00 E300.00
*
*
Start-up G-code End G-code
Unless you have a better known start-up g-code that allows for good bed
adhesion, copy/paste these g-code for start-up and end g-codes.

全部设置完后,对于初次打印失败的处理:

If the first layer doesn’t print right, download the
bed-setup-model-gcode-153.gcode
file and print that to manually adjust your bed-to-nozzle distance. If you can get that test gcode to print right, your
other prints will print right. Use the Z height screw! (You can also use the bed leveling screws to get the sweet
spot for the nozzle-to-bed distance. – not recommended, because it affects the level state, so if you are sure the
bed is already level, don’t touch the bed leveling screws anymore.
Focus on the Z height screw – one full turn=0.5mm, half turn=0.25mm, and 1/4th turn=0.125mm – you will turn it
ever so slightly (less than 1/8th turn.) Turning to the right will make the nozzle closer; turning to the left will make
the nozzle farther from the bed.
If the brim and first layer are not adhering to the bed, make the nozzle closer to the bed. If the filament does not
come out or is too squashed, make the nozzle farther away from the bed. The test print is very short so you don’t
have to wait too long for it to finish. But keep trying until it prints right.
Be sure your bed is also clean as the cleanliness is often ignored when bed adhesion is poor.
Please do not change the flow (extrusion) rate to attain bed adhesion as that will only destroy the delicate balance
of extrusion rate for different parts of the printing.
You can change the hotend temperature by opening the gcode file and editing the lines M104 S190 and M109
S190. You can change the 190 to the temperature you want to use for printing and tweaking your bed-to-
nozzle distance. Use the filament’s coldest recommended temperature

设置完后导入模型,选择料架大的部分,系统会自动切片,导入推荐配置(Royshands_on_Bardo_v450-01.curaprofile)后,根据需要选择平台附着模式。

610621d2e9064593aa4bb4f951f3e279.png

72ee2da264c4411a861623c8115f0091.png

剩下的就是链接打印机进行打印,可以在监控栏实时查看进度或预热喷头。

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